South
America by RV: Chile, Peru, and Argentina
Introduction
I last visited
South America twelve years ago, and although at the time I mostly
stayed with Silvio's family-now scattered over separate homes-and
involved myself with their internecine struggles, that other visit
coloured my way of thinking about my latest venture to the continent,
rather like dark clouds suggest but don't guarantee a downpour.
The most significant moments in Argentina and Chile from my first
trip were fleeting and mostly overwritten by an attempt to grapple
with a culture that could be very isolating. I laughed with Silvio
over strange people we met on our trip across the Andes to Chile,
grimaced with him through the awkward confrontation with his cousin,
marvelled at the way in which people in the coastal city of Mar
de Plata dealt with organ trade child abductions in the past and
the mark that had left on the culture, and ran with him when the
rabid cousin pursued us for over four hundred kilometres.
Necessarily,
more negative impressions from that first trip fed a reluctance
to return, but I hadn't seen Silvio since his short visit to my
cabin, and the circumstances of our latest trip promised to be
very different. He had urged me to visit ever since my last trip
south, and I had put him off, but he had spent both time and money
ensuring that we could travel for thousands of kilometres in a
way that he would be comfortable-and thus happy-and I would be
assured of a method of traveling that at least in part suited
both my temperament and inclinations. There only remained the
question of what we might want to see.
I went to
Portugal several years ago, and once my friend there had spent
part of his weekend taking me to various tourist spots, he finally,
with puzzlement if not frustration, asked me what I wanted to
see in the country. I didn't have an easy answer for him, and
I felt that what I said left him unsatisfied, and ultimately fell
short in terms of what a country might contain. I said I wanted
to see people interact in the market, watch a couple fight in
the street, see what litterers throw in the ditch, observe local
wild animals, eat in a café with villagers, walk along the shore
and in the mountains, and struggle to make myself understood.
I passed the weekends with him and his wife in Olhão and spent
the rest of the time driving the small roads north from the Algarve
toward the capital, looking vaguely for Roman ruins and picking
up hitchhikers walking on remote village roads.
I actually
didn't know what I was looking for, and even after a few weeks,
I was no closer to an answer for my friend. The images that stay
with me were impossible to predict: driving my friends into a
huge roundabout in rush-hour Seville, renting a car from my friend's
cousin who soon became my friend, sleeping in the car and being
woken by police at four in the morning and trying two other languages
before he asked, embarrassingly, his English perfect, "What language
do you speak?" since it was obvious I didn't speak either Spanish
or French passably. I remember crossing a high mountain pass that
was closed to traffic, and unaware, dropping down through the
snowstorm and seeing huge boulders rise out of the mist on the
other side as I drove past abandoned trucks. I looked in people's
faces for a hint of recognition, and despite my lack of Portuguese,
I saw it more than once.
I was approaching
South America a second time with the same directionless gaze.
The trip promised to offer more than a hard chair at a noisy confusing
table, and although Silvio and I had shared road trips before,
he had organized the venture to take into account our changing
circumstance.
We had driven
to western Canada a few times in my old car, but that way of traveling
suited me more than him. Camping in a tent does not represent
privation for me, and cooking over a fire is a relatively familiar
procedure. Silvio likes the clamour of crowds and meeting different
people, and endures lack of comfort with little grace. His latest
project promised to satisfy both of our requirements, and he was
more than a little excited to show me what he had accomplished.
Silvio has
spent the last two years building a recreational vehicle, although
that label does not do his achievement justice. He used a common
Canadian RV as his model, but improved on that enough that the
result is not easily recognized as a similar project. He bought
a Mercedes Sprinter truck chassis, and with the help of a man
who has been buildings RVs in Argentina for years, gradually constructed
the walls and roof, filled the truck interior with tasteful and
carefully designed furniture, and wired the truck with a dozen
kilometres of cables for Direct TV, 200 VAC and both 12 and 24
VDC. As well, the entire vehicle is networked. Three flat screen
TVs allow viewing from either of the two bunks and the kitchen,
and USB ports are available an arm's length from nearly anywhere
one might be sitting. Four hundred watts of solar panels run the
electrical equipment, and the gas powered oven, two burner stove,
water heater for the shower, refrigerator, and diesel powered
furnace ensure comfort, ease and, perhaps equally importantly,
a transparent familiarity that allows the user to ignore their
surroundings so they can focus on their trip.
Like any of
either my or Silvio's projects, I wasn't sure how long it would
hold his attention, and that thought-as well as the knowledge
that I am changing my personal circumstances so that traveling
might soon become more difficult-made Silvio's offer of the trip
even more inviting. The RV promised to give him the comfort he
requires to travel happily, and meant that I might be able to
touch the leaves in the Peruvian jungle, or feel the heat of the
Atacama Desert; otherwise I would have to be satisfied with merely
glimpsing them from a speeding bus. With those constraints and
enticements in mind, I booked a ticket and promised Silvio I would
meet him in Santiago, Chile on May 17th.
A Record
of Events
Without over
thinking the decision, I determined to keep a written record of
our journey. Partially this is because I have learned not to trust
my sometimes negligent memory, or, perhaps worse, I suspect that
my recall contains only a chaos of fleeting images. Other more
significant events, I fear, are almost immediately dispensed with,
although at the time they disrupt what I accept as normal, or
strange. Across time or distance, what is significant becomes
difficult to distinguish. The chronicler finds themselves reaching
for the arbitrary detail like a drowning man might grab for a
soup spoon, so entranced in the urgency of the moment by its metaphorical
connection to liquid that he loses sight of the main goal. Only
with a more sober evaluation, as his feet desperately plunge for
a solid bottom, will he understand that not everything in the
hand is necessary to the page.
A diary or
journal externalizes the process of memory until it almost seems
to be the trip of another; even within a few months the writer
finds themselves excavating the entries as if an archaeologist
in a collapsed cave. The half-forgotten bone knife is examined
anew, the ashes from the long extinct fire are sampled and tested,
and the emotions of the time can be set aside to be spaded into
moments of introspection at some later point. The book takes on
a life of its own as it moves beyond the confines of hazy memory,
retrospective reinvention, and outright fabulation. It exists
to answer the infrequent questions that greet the traveler freshly
back from a trip and, with the drift of the seasons, to give meaning
to a slice of time that otherwise fades.
During my
first trip to South America we were mainly confined to Argentina,
although we ducked into tropical Chile long enough for Silvio's
allergies to drive us back to the desert of Patagonia. I have
fading memories of the trip, the confusing visit in the mountains
at Villa de Angostura, the van ride over the Andes, snapshots
of children playing in the street in Pucón, Chile while a massive
volcano steamed passively overhead, and the long drive back to
Neuquén. Without a journal, these memories are trapped in my head,
although many of them have seeped out and hopefully enjoy a life
of their own far from where I write about them. I returned mentally
to Mar de Plata years later and tried to evoke the feeling of
that dingy city-for all the world like a run-down Miami-the laughing
crowds and desperate street performers, but I only held a handful
of cinders of what had been a bright flame.
Partly, the
attempt to put an earlier trip into context becomes problematic
because of the elapsed time. Retrospective narration can only
do so much. The logic of the circumstance might perhaps be clearer
to the editor whose eye turns to improving on the half-forgotten
moment, but the multitudinous detail that the daily record captures
is gone. The rich tapestry of pine and birch and maple becomes
in the faded memories only a sprawl of green uneasily captured
by the diminutive word forest.
The daily
record suffers from its own problems with accurate recall, of
course. The journal is necessarily written at the end of a sometimes
long day, and often this means late at night once the thrill of
the day's events are over. The writer is not necessarily in the
most reflective state of mind, since he or she is labouring while
exhausted, hungry, rushed before sleeping, or with the constant
interruptions of a fellow traveler. As well, important incidents
that make up a day on the road duck below ground, only to reappear
as a mundane grocery list of events. The richness of an interaction
might well be lost as the yawning traveler tries to cite events
in the order of occurrence, and the significance of a singular
moment, the meaning in a tiny lift of a hand or a raised eyebrow
might, in the rush of recording, be lost because the writer does
not have enough perspective on the trip to realize the importance
of the gesture.
I went to
South America this time-in some ways retracing the trip I had
taken twelve years earlier with Silvio-determined to capture the
dry desert air, the ashy smell of asado, the garish purple
of the jungle flowers, soft voices and those raised with shouting,
and the thousand other details that the mind is too tired to make
note of, or which are lost to time once a decade passes and the
minutiae of daily life intervenes.
May 16
~ The Mexico City Airport
It occurs
to me, waiting out my seven hour layover in the Mexico City Airport,
that my tendency to avoid researching a trip before leaving might
be working against me. When I first went overseas-to the Cook
Islands-I was traveling with another Canadian volunteer who avidly
read what westerners had said about the islands until he had some
very strange ideas about local culture. He told me I couldn't
wear black, for instance, and even had the temerity to say it
in front of some local high school students wearing black t-shirts.
Others of my friends even, in my terms, over-prepare. My friend
Nancy went to France on a trip of her own design and packed every
day with more activities than she would have had even if she had
relinquished her creativity to an organized tour. The effect of
that was that she visited many sites that I still have scarcely
heard of and came back sated with France and French culture. By
comparison, I stupidly stood outside a cathedral in Bruge, Belgium,
pondering whether to pay the entrance fee for a glimpse of Michelangelo's
Mother and Son. Only later did I find out that if I walked another
several steps I could have entered for free.
I'm sure there's
a happy medium somewhere between these two extremes. Today I have
been wandering around the Mexico City Airport on a seven hour
layover on my way to Chile. Since I didn't have internet at home
before I left, and was busy painting my new house, I didn't look
up Chile, or the airport I'm flying into. Now that I have airport
Wi-Fi, as well as too much time on my hands, I have belatedly
discovered that Chile has import restrictions on all kinds of
food items. Even packaged goods are sometimes taken away and destroyed.
I knew I would
be in transit for some thirty hours, and would likely not have
a vegetarian meal on the plane, so I brought too much dried fruit
and nuts. Likely I will have to discard my two packages of figs,
and I have already thrown away my peanuts and prunes. The rest
of the food I choked down quickly before my flight, but most of
the blame for this waste can be directly attributed to my recalcitrance
about advance research. My method is certainly not a universal
traveling panacea, although I have had vivid encounters in many
countries largely because I had chosen not to press myself too
much into the well-folded shirt of planning.
In Santiago
I am meeting Silvio, who historically has not been that avid about
planning either. Only yesterday, while I was in Toronto waiting
on the flight to Mexico, did he check where he would be picking
me up at the airport. He sent me a photo of an overhang and suggested
it was on the second floor. I'm sure we'll find each other, and
in any event we are much better prepared for our trip, and life
itself, than the tightly wound fanatic couple who just passed
me as I was writing this. For them the world is a deliberately
convoluted mystery wrapped in a thick gutter loaf of ignorance.
Everything must seem strange to them. They spent ten minutes discussing
their gate in front of the information booth, but perhaps a lifelong
habit of putting their trust in the ineffable instead of the world
around them leads them to striking out alone rather than asking
the staff. They are like the deluded swimmer who eyes the Atlantic
crossing with aplomb, only to find themselves choking on salt
water ten metres from the shore.
The most impressive
feature in the Mexican airport, at least for me in my situation,
is the chairs. They are meant to discomfort those who sit upon
them, such as the hostile architecture I have written about before,
but in this case they have been modified by weary travelers. The
stainless steel arches, meant to be used as armrests and to prevent
people from lying down, have been compressed by frustrated travelers
so that they might stretch out on the bench. As Thoreau said over
a hundred years ago, the public utility of the seating is being
tested by the traveler's urge to modify.
May 17
~ The Arrival
This latest
set of flights felt much longer than they did on previous trips.
I was in the Mexico City airport for seven hours, and I was tired
already by that point. My thoughts flitted about like the sparrows
that swooped through the airport walls. Like the birds, I was
perhaps enticed by the angled holes some architect had designed
into the structure, but of their presence only a brown blur was
left to declare that they had been there.
I persevered
through the long night, however, and finally managed, by using
each device I brought, to get the internet to work. I updated
Silvio on my whereabouts, and choked down the food that the Chilean
government doesn't allow in the country due to a fear of agricultural
contamination. Soon I was on the plane sitting beside a Chilean
couple and we chatted off and on through the morning and afternoon
until we landed at eight in the evening. It felt much later to
me, however, as though we had flown through the night. The illusion
was assisted by the LCD windows which could be darkened electrically
by pushing a button. The whole plane was as dark as though we'd
flown away from the sun and more than once I pressed on the controls
as if to assure myself that the sun was still high in the sky,
and had not, as my senses suggested, been eclipsed by a monstrous
electronic shadow.
I was expecting
fruit and nut problems at customs, but the figs I had left, as
well as my Chinese ginger candies, proved to be no issue for the
agricultural customs officer I dealt with; I was passed through
with a wave after he scanned my luggage. He might have been less
assiduous than usual because his fellow border guards were sitting
in a row behind him commenting on the travelers and generally
chatting. I could see by his angled neck and lack of attention
to my Spanish that he was eager to get back to the conversation.
I tried to encourage his inattentiveness by looking pointedly
at his colleagues, as if their conversation was so enrapturing
that even a foreigner would want to hear what was said. It was
a delicate balance. I didn't want to appear so interested that
they would become sensitive about ignoring their job, or so disinterested
in my luggage scan that I would require a more invasive search
to confirm the importance of officials.
Once I was
through customs, I sat on a bench on the main floor to pull up
the airport Wi-Fi and messaged Silvio that I had arrived. I received
an immediate reply. He told me to go to the second floor and look
for the approach of his RV. The night was cool outside, and the
air had a crispness that I associate with fall. The road was filled
with cars disgorging passengers and taxis scanning for business,
but even as I walked through the doors, Silvio's truck, much larger
than any of the other vehicles, and unmistakeably a RV, turned
the corner, lumbering like an elephant amongst zebras and wildebeest.
In what has
to be the easiest arrival ever, I jumped into his truck, we pulled
around the corner to set the GPS, and soon we were driving north
out of Santiago. Oddly, the night seemed to warm up once we were
underway, although I think that had more to do with the heater
in the truck than the ambient temperature of the road.
We aimed for
the coastal portion of the Pan-American Highway which we planned
to follow for some days. As we drove, Silvio told me how he'd
been waiting for my arrival moments away. Although he'd left home
days before, he had come to the airport an hour early, chatted
with airport security and for his efforts he was soon pointed
to a free place to park in the spots reserved for airport staff.
"You can stay here as long as you want," his new friend told him,
but just as he tried to nap, expecting I would be delayed in my
negotiations with customs, I sent a message and he was behind
the wheel again.
Laughing and
talking, unable to believe our luck, we drove out of the city
through the smaller towns that have sprung up around Santiago,
and were soon in the Chilean hinterland. For me the evening passed
like blurred lights through the windscreen as the city outskirts
fell away and occasional yard lights lit the night. We stopped
at a gas station, and Silvio negotiated with an African Columbian
who spoke Columbian-accented Spanish, and before long we had agreed
on a spot to spend my first night in Chile, tucked out of sight
in a gas station parking lot. I am energized now that we are finally
meeting again, but I am old enough to know that if we spend the
night driving, or talking, I will wake the next morning feeling
terrible. I can't go without sleep for more than a day without
feeling the effects, and as much fun as this trip promises to
be, I don't intend to ruin it with pushing too hard too fast.
Silvio's RV
is amazing; I feel like stealing it myself so I can see why he
worries about theft. He has a stall for a bathroom and another
for a shower, an oven, kitchen stove, sink with hot, cold, and
filtered water, kitchen table, three bunks, cupboards, and tons
of storage. A hyper-efficient Russian-built diesel-burning furnace
heats the truck at night, and solar panels on the roof provide
the electrical power. Beneath it all is a solid, well-running,
recently tuned-up Mercedes truck. Inside it is as complex as an
airplane cockpit; every wall, it feels like, hosts a series of
cryptic buttons and knobs, and I doubt that a month will suffice
for me to understand the working of them all.
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